Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes (1989) / Chapter Skim
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Executive Summary
Executive Summary
Pages 1-6
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Examples of these problems are the rapid erosion of the barrier islands along the Atlantic and Gulf coastlines, the possible Trip act of sea level change on shore stability and structures; construction, protection, or preservation of some expensive coastal structures and developments; and the cost and impact of the extensive harbor entrance dredging. Although no one has evaluated the total cost of coastal engineering works in the United States, much less defined the entire scope of such activity, we do know that the cost of maintenance dredging 1
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Unfortunately, many coastal processes are poorly understood, largely due to the difficulty of making good measurements. The processes represent a large range of space and time scales, from the smallest turbulence scales to sea level changes occurring over decades.
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These problems are in turn treated in regard to the following coastal processes: . kinematics and hydrodynamics of high-frequency flows, including wave and current motions with periods of five minutes or less, such as ocean waves; ~ kinematics and hydrodynamics of low-frequency flows with periods of more than five minutes, including tides and storm surges; fluid/sediment interactions; and fluid/structure interactions.
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High-Priority Recommendations Wave data and measurement techniques: 1. Directional wave energy spectra and their rapid dissern~nation to forecasters and researchers are needed; a national coastal measurement system to expand a small-area coverage now in place is recommended.
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4. Improve means to measure velocity profiles in energetic, rapidly varying flow fields to allow better estimates of boundary shear stress.
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III short, recent developments in sensor technology, data telemetry, recoiling systems and computers offer promise of significant advances ~ the resolution of many serious coastal engineering prom terns in the next decade. To meet the recommendations of this report, a national commitment is called for—involving government departments and agencies, such as the U.S.
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