Measuring and Understanding Coastal Processes (1989) / Chapter Skim
Currently Skimming:
1. Introduction
1. Introduction
Pages 7-18
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From page 7... ...
Harbors are only one example of the growing need for coastal and ocean engineering research. Numerous other issues must be addressed before the nation can cope with the increasing pressures iStatistical Abstract of the United States, 1984.
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From page 8... ...
One example of such research, which reflects the close relationship between dredging technology and coastal engineering, is the feeder berm concept. The feeder berm will take beach-quality material excavated from harbor entrances or offshore channeb and place it at selected sites just off the beach where storm wave action would gradually move the material in the downdrift direction.
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From page 9... ...
Equally important to the evaluation of the storm's effect was the ability to quantify the characteristics of that storm—to measure wave parameters and document beach erosion and benthic profile changes. This knowledge can be attributed partly to the in-place coastal wave monitoring program for the San Diego Coastal Region of the U.S.
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From page 10... ...
in 1984 to assess the research and development requirements in coastal engineering. This pane} concluded that the most common design requirement for coastal engineers is the need for good wave information, particularly directional information.
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The Shallow-Water Ocean Engineering Research workshop group also stressed physical and mathematical modeling of coastal processes as a critical area for development. The ad hoc Committee on Natural Hazards and Research Needs in Coastal and Ocean Engineering identified needs in five areas of field-related research.
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The Nearshore Environment Research Center (Horikawa, 1988) project in Japan was a multi-institution study that incorporated field measurements In an attempt to develop numerical models for predicting beach evolution caused by coastal structures.
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Recent NRC reports have addressed some aspects of estuarine-lagoonal engineering; the mid-to-outer continental shelf presents engineering design problems somewhat different from those of the inner shelf-nearshore zone and ~ beyond the scope of this report. Successful engineering within this inner coastal zone is essential if people are to live there in harmony with the environment.
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From page 14... ...
W~n~, Waves, Currents, and Tides The important driving forces in the coastal zone include winds, waves, currents, and tides. While local winds generate local waves and create higher water levels during storms, pressure systems thousands of kilometers from the coast create winds that ultimately may have a severe impact on the shoreline.
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From page 15... ...
Near the many coastal inlets characteristic of the Atlantic and Gulf coasts of the United States, tides alter wave height and direction and coastal currents in an intricate fashion. Varying tidal elevations (m some areas exceeding 10 meters)
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Determining that the most unportant measurements are those that are most needed to solve coastal engineering problems, the comuruttee agreed on a structural approach that proceeded along the path shown ~ Figure Id. The committee saw this as a hierarchical analysm that is, each engineering problem has a variety of processes that must be understood, generally requiring a variety of measurements which in turn are used in engineering design or modeling to produce an engineering solution.
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. Often the differences are not conflicting but simply represent immediate applied engineering needs versus the more subtle basic research requirements.
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From page 18... ...
18 Identify Engineering Issue 1. ~ 1 r - 1 Identify Important Processes r ~ Identify Measurement Requirements l ~ Assess Existing Capabilities 1 ' 1 Identity Development Needs FIGURE 1-1 Structural approach to collecting information on coastal engineering problems.
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