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22 MEMOIRS O F T H E NATIONAL A C A D E M Y O F SCIENCES. The drawing from which Figure 3 is engraved was made by G E O E a E W . R O B E E T S O N , Esq., of Liverpool, and is accurate. Mr. A ^ E U N D E L L describes it very briefly in a letter of January Ist, 1884. The plan gives the disposition of the various masses about the central space. The figures in the margins are the elevations of the ten smaller blocks shown lu the plan on the borders of the inclosure. The two walls at the ends are not represented in plan, but are revolved 90° so as to appear in elevation. With this explanation the figure can be understood. The material of the blocks and walls is coral and coral conglomerate. Mr. A E U N D E L L opened ⢠cairn 0 without finding any trace of bones, ashes, or of any human remains. They are situated on the western side of the most northern islet, and there are a few smaller ones on the south point of the longest islet on the eastern side. They must have been built by a native population, but no natives were known to inhabit the island at its first occupation by the whites. }2. D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E I S L A N D B Y PROF E S H O L D E N ; AND L I E U T E F QuALTROnOH, U 8. N . Our own observations and the careful survey of the island which was made by Lieutenant QuALTEOTJGH and Midshipmen F L E T O H E E and D O Y L E , enable me to give a tolerably accurate description of Caroline Island. I desire, however, before giving the results of our own work to quote from Professor D A N A ' S Corals and Coral Islands, and from D A E W I N ' S Voyage of the Beagle, their accounts of typical coral atolls which they visited. The only changes necessary in their descriptions, to make these apply exactly to our station, are changes in the dimensions of the ocean reefs, the beaches, etc. The general features of a coral atoll are most perfectly and graphic- ally descnbed by them. To understand their accounts, I may say that the general shape of Caro- line Island is that of a pear-shaped ring of islets, encircling a lagoon. The islets aie based on the ocean reef which D A N A calls the shore platform. Between the islets are portions of this platform, which are nearly bare at low water. Inside the ocean reef is the lagoon, which is itself filled with reefs of corals. Professor D A N A says: "The shore platform is from one to three hundred feet in width, and has the general features of a half- submerged outer reef. Its peculiarities arise solely from the accumulations which have changed the reef into an island. Much of it is commonly bare at low tide, though there are places where it IS always covered with a few inches or a foot of water; and the elevated [outer] edge, the only part exposed, often seems hke an embankment preventing the water from running off. The tides, as they rise, cover it with water throughout and bear over it coral fragments and sand, commin- uted shells, and other animal remains, to add them to the beach. "The heavier seas transport larger fragments; and at the foot of the beach there is often a deposit of blocks of coral, or coral rock, which low tide commonly leaves standing in a few inches of water. On moving these masses, which generally rest on their projecting angles", and have an open space beneath, the waters at once become ahve with fish, shrimps and crabs, escaping from their disturbed shelter; and beneath appear various actiniaj or living fiowers, the spiny echini and sluggish beche de mer, while swarms of shells, having a holdier crab for their tenant, walk off with unusual life and statebness. Moreover, delicate corallines, ascidiai, and sponges, tint with lively shades of red, green, and pink the under surface of the block of coial which had formed the roof of the little grotto. The beach consists of coral pebbles or sand, with some worn shells, and occasionally the exuvise of crabs and bones of fishes. Owing to its whiteness, and the contrast it affords to the massy verdure above, it is a remarkable feature m the distant view of these islands.
Fig. 4. DETAILED CHART OF T H ESOUTHERN ISLET OF CAROLINE ISLANDS. Legend k. D w e l l i n g - h o m i e , A m e r i c a n party. B. P e n d u l u m teat, Mr. Freeton. T n n « i t teot, Mr. P m t o n . O. d w e l l i n g houne, F r e n c h p u t j . 'E-Jisrs"*I "--^"^ P. Dwelling-tents, French Tarty. p. Photoheliograph, Lieutenant Quallrough. SI; R. Transit instrument, M. Paiisa. 0. Six-inch equatorial, Mr. I j i w r e n c e . S. S i x - i n c h e q u a t o r i a l , M . Tai-^hinL H. O b e e r v a t o r r , ProfeBHor H o r . Polariacope, M . Tacchini. 1. O b w r Y a t o r r . J â^ R O , H w e l L V. O b « e r v a l o r y , M . T a e c h i n i J. D a r k room, Mr. Woods. V. Observatory, M . Paliso. *3
F)G. 5.âGKNKRAL V I E W OF T H E ASTRONOMICAL STATION AT CAROLINE ISLAND.
S O L A R E C L I P S E , M A Y 6, 1883 23 The emerged land beyond the beach in its last stage stands 6 to 10 feet out of wat«r. The surface consists of coral sand, more or less discolored by vegetable or animal decomp.osition. Scat- tered among the trees stand, still uncovered, many of the larger blocks of coral, with their nsual rough angular features and blackened surface. There is but little depth of coral soil, although the land may appear buried in the richest foliage. I n fact, the soil is scarcely anything but coral sand. I t is seldom discolored beyond 4 or 5 inches, and but little of it to this extent. There is no proper vegetable mold, but only a mixture of darker particles with the white grains of coral sand. I t IS often rather a coral gravel, and below a foot or two it is usually cemented together into a more or less compact coral sand-rock. " The shore of the lagoon is generally low and gently inclined, yet in the larger islands [as at Caroline Island] there is usually a beach resembling that on the seaward side, though of less extt'Ut. A platform of reef-rock, at the same elevation as the shore-platform, sometimes extends out into the lagoon; but it is more common to find it a little submerged, and covered for the most part with growing corals; and, in either case, the bank terminates outward in an abrupt descent, of a few yards or fathoms, to a lower area of growing corals or to a bottom of sand. Still more commonly we meet with a sandy bottom', gradually deepening from the shores, without growing coral. These three vaneties of condition are generally found in the same lagoon, char- acterizing its different parts. The lower area of growing corals slopes outward and ceases when the depth is 10 to 12 fathoms or sooner. "There are usually currents flowing to leeward through the lagoon, and out, over, or through the leeward reef, the waves with the rising tide dashing over the windward side, and keeping up a large supply, which is greatly increased in times of storms; and this action tends to keep open a leeward channel for the passage of the water." The various illustrations scattered through this section (which are engraved from photographic prints kindly furnished by the gentlemen of the English expedition) will make this description more clear to those who have not actually seen a coral atoll. They have been redrawn from the prints by Mr. R . N . B R O O K E , of Washington, to whom our thanks are due for the care which he brought to his difJcult task. From D A R W I N ' S Journal the following extracts are taken: " The ring-formed reef of the lagoon island is surmounted in the greater part of its length by linear islets. On entering the lagoon the scene was very curious and rather pretty. Its beauty, however, entirely depended on the brilliancy of the surrounding colors. The shallow, clear and still water of the lagoon, resting in its greater part on white sand, is, when illumined by a vertical sun, of the most vivid green. This brilhant expanse, several miles in width, is on all sides divided, either by a hue of snow-white breakers from the dark heaving waters of the ocean, or from the blue vault of heaven by the strips of land, crowned by the level tops of the cocoanut trees. As a white cloud here and there affords a pleasing contrast with the azure sky, so in the lagoon, bands of living coral darken the emerald-green water." " The next morning after anchoring I went on shore. The strip of dry land is only a few hun- dred yards in width. On the lagoon side there is a white calcareous beach, the radiation from which under this sultry climate was very oppressive; and on the outer coast, a solid broad plat of coral rock served to break the violence of the open sea. Excepting near the lagoon, where there is some sand, the laud is entirely composed of rounded fragments of coral. I n such a loose, dry, stony soil, the climate of the intertropical regions alone could produce a vigorous vegetation. On some of the smaller islets nothing could be more elegant than the manner in which the young an,j
24 MEMOIRS O F T H E NATIONAL A C A D E M Y O F SCIENCES. full-grown cocoanut trees, without destroying each other's symmetry, were mingled into one wood. A beach of glittenng white sand formed a border to these fairy spots." " The long strips of land forming the linear islets have been raised only to that height to which the surf can throw fragments of coral, and the wind heap up calcareous sand. The solid plat of coral rock on the outside, by its breadth, breaks the first violence of the waves, which otherwise in a day would sweep away these islets and all their productions. The ocean and the land seem here struggling for mastery. Although terra firma has obtained a footing the denizens of the water think their claim at least equally good. I n every part one meets hermit crabs of more than one species carrying on their backs the shells which they have stolen from the neighboring beach. Overhead numerous gannets, frigate-birds, and terns rest on the trees; and the wood, from the many nests and from the smell of the atmosphere, might be called a sea-rookery. The gannets, sitting on their rude nests, gaze at one with a stupid yet angry air. The noddies, as their name expresses, are silly little creatures. But there is one charming bird; it is a small snow-white tern, which smoothly hovers at the distance of a few feet above one's head, its large black eye scanning, with quiet curiosity, your expression. Little imagination is required to fancy that so light and delicate a body must be tenanted by some wandering fairy spirit." " The next day I employed myself in examining the very interesting yet simple structure and origin of these islands. Tlie water being unusually smooth, I waded over the outer plat of dead rock as far as the living mounds of coral, on which the swell of the open sea breaks. I n some of the gqllies and hollows there were beautiful green and other colored fishes, and the form and tints of many of the zoophytes were admirable. I t is excusable to grow enthusiastic over the infinite numbers of organic beings with which the sea of the tropics, so prodigal of life, teems, yet I must confess I think those naturalists who have described, in well-known words, the submarine grottoes decked with a thousand beauties have indulged in rather exuberant language." " Every single atom, from the least particle to the largest fragment of rock, in this great pile, which, however, is small compared with very many other lagoon islands, bears the stamp of having been subjected to organic arrangement. We feel surprised when travelers tell us of the vast dimensions of the pyramids and other great ruins, but how utterly insignificant are the greatest of these when compared to these mountains of stone accumulated by the agency of various minute and tender animals! This is a wonder which does not at first strike the eye of the body, but, after reflection, the eye of reason." The foregoing extracts give a complete picture of the typical coral atoll, and, as I have said, we require simply to make a few changes in the dimensions to make them exactly apply to Caroline Island. The frontispiece, which is derived from the survey made at my request, will give the necessary changes at a glance. To this I add a brief description furnished by Lieutenant Q I T A L T E O U G H . " C A E O L I N E I S L A N D , or chain of islands, is of coral formation of the lagoon type, and in shape is an irregular elongated oval; it is 6f miles long from NNE. to S S W . and its circumference, meas- ured on the outer or inclosing reef, is approximately 13 miles. The greatest breadth is at the south- ern end, where it measures 1^ miles, and the average width may be placed at three quarters of a mile. "The atoll consists of a chain of twenty-five little islets, well covered with trees and shrubbery, the whole forming a quiet scene of grove and lake, charmingly set off by the contrasting ocean. Between the patches of verdure there is a flat, water covered table of coral rock, which is covered
F I G . 6.âGROUP OF PANDANUS T R E E S .
F I G . 7 . â B E A C H OF LAGOON (UXJKING NORTH). F I G . 8.âBEACH OK LAGOON (LOOKING SOUTH).
S O L A R E C L I P S E , M A Y 6,1883. 25 with little coral heads which show at low water. On some of the islands there are spaces void of vegetation, extending from lagoon to sea-beach, which indicate the existence at a former time of a water separation. "The inclosing platform reef fnnges the shore, forming a wide extension, elevated at its outer edge, around the greater portion of which the surf breaks with considerable violence. There is a passage through, or over, this bordering reef near the southern end, which is deep enough to permit small ships' boats to penetrate to the lagoon at high water. " The surface of the islands is covered with a growth of trees and other vegetation, much of which has been planted by the hand of man, especially large numbers of cocoa palms, which are being raised for the production of cocoanut-oil. The water in the lagoon is extremely salt, and evidently of greater density than the water of the outer sea. " The climate of the island, though warm, is delightful, for, surrounded as it is by sea, the tem- perature I S equable. The weather, though mostly fine, is somewhat changeable, with occasional sudden showers, which occur generally at night or during the early morning. The prevailing winds in April and May were from the N . and E . " The following inscription exists, posted on a blackboard on the lower island: "'Carohne Island, latitude 9 ° 56' S., longitude 350° 06' W . Leased from Her Most Gra- cious Majesty V I C T O R I A , Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, by Messrs. H O U L D E R , Bros, & Co,, No. 146 Leadenhall St., London, England, and Fanning's Island, North Pacific Ocean, Agents: Mdme, T. S A L M O N , veuve B R A N D E R , Tahiti; T H O M A S H . D A V I E S , H . B . M . vice-consul, Honolulu; M A C O N D R A Y & Co., San Francisco." "There are some traces of former inhabitants, among which may be mentioned three houses and two sheds, in good repair, on the lower island, and two others on the northern island of the group. About one-third the distance up the lagoon a canvas hut exists on one of the smaller islets on the eastern side of the lagoon, and two wooden huts stand on one of the western islets, some distance further up the lagoon. A t various places around the beach, anchors, chains, spars, and pieces of the woodwork of vessels may be seen, some of them, perhaps, being the remains of wrecks on the reef in years gone by. The island is inhabited at the present time by seven persons, four men, one woman, and two children, who are engaged in the planting and care of the young cocoanut trees now about 3 feet high. " Some varieties of phosphatic guano are found on the islets, but at the present time there seems to be no effort to export any. The source of fresh water on Caroline, as on many coral islands, is the rains, which percolate through the sands and collect upon the coral rock, which forms the basis of the island. There are two shallow wells on the lower island, and another on the upper or north- ern island. "Tidal observations made in the lagoon show no relation between the rise and fall in the lagoon and that outside. The lagoon is open to windward, and the wind evidently exercises great influence over the height of the water." The brick piers which we constructed for the support of our instruments, and the frames of our observatories, which we left standing, will serve to signalize our occupation of the island. I n particular I placed upon the upper surface of the pier of the transit instrument a marble slab bearing the inscription, "IT. S. Eclipse Party, 1883, May 6." This marks the point to which our latitude and longitude are referred. , I t may be added that a series of tidal observations was made by Lieutenant Q U A L T E O U G H and Messrs. F L E T C H E R and D O Y L E . These show the lunar tidal interval on the day of full and chonge S, Mis, 110 4
